Sewing stretch fabric

This is a log on sewing with stretch fabric. I have recently got myself some stretch jersey fabric to make a dress. If one knows how to sew stretch or jersey fabrics one can sew a lot of garments like t-shirts, leisure wear like yoga or exercise garments or swimwear. I have never sew any swimwear before so I can’t say much about sew them. As it’s a stretch fabric the principles of sewing stretch fabric still stands.  Bias cut 

Cut and transfer the fabric like what you with other fabrics. Just lay it flat and don’t over stretch the fabric. The shape will different otherwise. Lay it flat on relax state no stretch or any stretching needed. The structure of fabric changes with stretch and no stretch. This will affect of how the garment fit and flows in the end result. Do take care about the stretch when sewing with stretch fabric. Too much stretch the garment will be too tight, too little it will be loose. It’s finding the right balance between the two.

When sewing the fabrics together use a narrow zigzag stitch. By using narrow zigzag stitch (which is no.5 stitch) it allows room for stretching unlike ordinary straight stitch. Although there is a range of zigzag stitches available on a machine narrow zigzag stitch works best without taking too much room especially at the seams.

When finished seam one doesn’t really need to overlock the fabric. As it doesn’t tend to fray. I do overlock as it just helps to reinforce the seam stitches. Also it gives the inside structure of the garment a neat finish.

For finishing hems I tend to use a double sewing needle stitch. To sew the double  sewing needle stitch one will need a twin needle and extra bobbin. Thread up the extra bobbin leave it at the bobbin feeder. Then feed two threads together at the same time. Then just start sewing. If there is no twin needle around or it’s broken just use narrow zigzag stitch.

To finish necklines (I am making a wraparound dress) I use a stretch facing that not only reinforces but gives room for a bit of stretch as well. I also overlock the edges as well. It just keeps it neat and tidy.