This blog post is about how to sew hip yoke pockets. This pocket is also known as curved insert pockets. It also forms the commonly seen jeans pockets. The only difference is how it styled and the design of the pocket it varies slightly from one to another. It is also seen in a lot of tailored pants as well. This pocket when sewing on jeans it is also sewn with patch pockets for the back.
I have recently sewn this pocket for a tailored trousers pattern from Burda sewing magazine. To sew this pocket one will also need a bit of lining fabric so as to reduce the bulkiness of the fabric in the pockets. It also creates a nice design when it matches. Shown below a red spotted lining fabric use to line the pocket. The finished pocket ready to be sewn with rest of the trouser pieces.
How to sew hip yoke pockets
To get going with sewing them is to cut of the pieces from the pattern. The pieces can vary from from pattern to another. But the basics of sewing this pocket will be the same.
Then place the lining onto the main pants pieces shown below.
Tese pockets are also among the first things sewn when sewing a pair of trousers. That is normally sewing after darts. Press the lining inside out like the other first picture. Then place the outer pocket and sew the lining together in place.
Then still pin the pieces in place before sewing the other main pieces of trousers/ pants together. As this will affect the size of the waistband. Also another tip I found is where the pocket joins at opening of the pants at the side, it’sa tricky area as well. These areas can affect the opening size of the pocket. Any deviation can alter the size of the opening.
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