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Here is a blog post on how to make welt pockets. I have bought a few fabrics recently and I need a new coat. Welt pockets are very commonly seen on coats, trousers and jackets. Some welt pockets come in the double welt. Which just simply means there is two welts instead of one.

There are other names for this kind of pocket. Bound pockets. Welt pockets is what is commonly known in sewing and dressmaking world. Or is use in patterns, magazine or books.

Recently I have just been to the Spring Knitting and Stitching show in Olympia, London. Fabulous event to go to if those who love crafts. Here is my previous blog post on the autumn show last year.

To start ….

To make welt pockets you will need some fabric stiffeners. In the UK I use Vilene medium weight inter lining/ interfacing as the coat I am making is made out of cashmere wool. The type of fabric stiffener depends on how thick the fabrics is. A lighter for thinner and so on. On can also use french linen stiffeners available from specialist shops that sell couture making haberdashery.

Make the welt first then put in the pocket. It is much easier that way. Measure how long the opening you will need. I normally follow the pattern or just measure how long your other garments are.

Below picture i have made one already now I making the second welt on the other side.

Fabric stiffeners can be a bit of mess as it will be hidden inside of the pocket. The length and width is very important as you will need enough to cover round the welt I would add at least 4 cm all round. the opening.

Transferring the markings onto the fabric

Then measure transfer the marking exactly on the pattern or how you would like it to fit on the garment. If you are doing it for the first time practice on scraps first as ultimately you will be making an opening in the garment ans there is no turning back. I have not made this a long time but I remember from the days of working as an apprentice at Savile Row. We just have practice till perfect on scraps. 

Above I have the marking I like on the pocket on the wrong side. Place the right side of the fabrics together with the iron interfacing facing outside. I use a dressmaker tracing wheel to mark the interfacing.

Then stay stitch together the layers of fabric together. Then sew round the pocket opening. When it is done nicely the fabric should crease free. Below is not the best photo but to should be crease free. When sewing items of heavy fabric like coat of jacket there is a lot of fabric moving around. this will or might move the lines.

I use a rotary cutter to cut thru the layers of fabrics. Rotary cutter are brilliant for cutting out heavy fabrics and especially in narrow lines it cuts perfectly. when I use small sharp scissor to cut the corners.

Then turn it round and iron out. It will look like a small narrow square window. Press with and iron.

While at ironing board fold the welt over to close this hole that have just been made. Just fold over enough to cover the hole. The welt is done.

Then flip back to the inside and sew the cut triangle corners. Sew as close as you can this will help to reinforce the pocket corners.

Sewing pockets on welt opening

This bit is done now it’s time to put the pockets. I always like deep pockets in my coat as I don’t things falling out of the pockets. Therefore I always make bigger cut at the pocket bottom. For thick fabric like coat I use a thinner fabric like cotton and one layer of wool. this is help to reduce the bulk on the coat.

The top bit of the pocket I use cotton fabric and the bottom bit I use the actual fabric. As the bottom piece will show when the pocket is in use.

This is how it look outside. Trust me it’s a bit untidy inside but the lining will hide everything. This is especially on coats. If you are sewing on unlined garments you will need to tidy up the insides. On thick fabrics the welt pockets tend to look bulkier as well compare to fabrics like linen.

Hence there is a bit of a bulk round the corners. Another option is to make the binding broader. That can help and will reduce the bulkiness.