Bluff / seamless patch pocket how to sew it

This a blog post sewing bluff patch pocket. It’s called a bluff as one can’t see the sewing lines on the pocket. It is also called in-seam pocket as it’s sewn inside rather than outside.

Pockets are a great item to have in a garment. It is not essential for a garment to have a pocket, especially in womenswear. As they have got handbags and other stuff to carry their belongings and essentials in. Pockets do take time to make especially if one is trying to make different types of packet. Of course, as home sewer, you want to make different types of pockets. surely you can’t your homemade wardrobe having the same type of pockets. I have previously made welt pockets and side seam pockets. all are great but they have got a different application on different types of garment.

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Bluff patch pocket how to sew it

Bluff / seamless patch pocket as it’s commonly called creates an effect of a pocket that looks as if it’s pasted on. Quite clever eh? I think it is compared to conventional patch pockets as it easy to sew. this type of pockets is also easy to sew once you know how to sew it. It’s a bit more tricky to master but once you get the hang of it, it’s relatively easy to sew.

There are many ways to sew it online and youtube videos. Depending on the type of fabric it will determine how the bluff patch pocket is sewn. The fabric I am sewing onto in this example is a loosely woven tweed. I have to overlock the seams first before sewing onto the main body of the garment. In this instance the jacket.

Preparing pocket

Before one starts sewing onto the garment besides overlocking it is important to prepare the pocket line or unline. Then transfer the markings for the position of pockets on the garment. Also, bluff pockets are more suited for curve corner or mitred pocket rather than a sharp pocket. This is because the pocket is sewn inside rather outside. It will not give any definition like sharp corner pockets.

Once this is done it’s all set to sew the pocket onto the garment. Use a tacking stitch like a loose zigzag. I find it using the method gives more control. This is a temporary stitch make it as loose as possible as it will be taken off once the pocket is in place. I only sew it to 2 corners rather than 3 corners. This would give more room manipulate round the corners. It’s hard to show on the photos as I use the same colour thread so it hasn’t shown up very well

Yes, you will have enough room to sew up to the last corner. It did give me a puzzled face when I first look up but it is possible not unless you got a very small patch pocket. Be careful on attaching the pocket as too little the bluff looks hanging off. To tight the main garment will be pulled in. Just follow the seam and check every time as you go along. To make sure it’s sewn evenly and both pockets are the same size and symmetrical. It is possible to line the pocket as it would give a nice finish. if so it needs to be prepared before sewing onto the main garment. Also, as always sew the pockets before sewing on the lining.